NYT Cooking: This is not really a New York cheesecake recipe — there’s no lemon (although there could be) — this is an all-American cheesecake of the big, beautiful, lush and creamy variety, the kind that causes gasps of delight when you bring it to the table and sighs of satisfaction when you and your guests savor bite after bite. The cake’s velvety texture is a result of a long turn in the mixer, and a cool-
